The Costa Rica Treck

24th January 2009

15 nervous faces trying not to look so met at 08.20 at Heathrow prior to departure. 16 hours later we were at Houston and we had had some time to talk, although still somewhat guarded. Only one member of the group, Jackie, the doc (later nicknamed Dr. Pingu,) seemed completely at ease.
We arrived at our room in San Jose on the Atlantic side at 01.30 hrs (GMT + 6) ready to drop. 1 ½ hours to repack the rucksacks and a shower made the morning come all too quickly.

25th January 2009

05.00 hrs and we are away. All showing signs of fatigue and nerves but desperate to get stuck in. A hearty breakfast of rice, beans and egg for the day ahead was enjoyed by all.  28 degrees and sunshine had us all slapping on the factor 20.
Real pleasure was to be drawn from this, we could all tell.

A brief from Dave the team leader made it sound such fun and so easy prior to jumping on the bus. 2 hours later we disgorged half we up the volcano Erazu to 14 degrees and rain. A ‘Caribbean storm to last 3 days’ 

We had managed about 3 hours when shoes became tight, packs on the backs became heavy and we noticed we were all soaked through to our undies.
A 10 minute coffee stop and back out again.

The first day was completed. 13km later having spent all day cold wet, tired, hungry and eager for a good nights sleep. Camp was set above the clouds, (we had climbed uphill all day, little did we know how much we climbing we were going to do!!!)  To 3842 m above sea level. Still in the pouring rain, we learned very quickly how to erect an aged tent. We ate and retired to our wet tents. 18 Km over rough terrain, steep at times joked Dave during his brief for tomorrow.

Sleep would surely come to tired bodies tonight. Storm or no storm. The human body can become only so wet, but can become oh so tired!!
1 hour into our retirement for the night, Rachel a dear lass from Aberdeen disputed the tenancy of her tent with a scorpion. I believe the scorpion slept soundly that night in a tent.
 
26th January 2009

Up at 5 am to temperatures of about 4 degrees, with still no sleep and after a hearty breakfast of rice, beans and egg again we packed our soaking wet tents into their bags and set off for Dave’s joke. The truck took us to the bottom of yet another mountain and we began to climb. With coffee plantations to either side, the scenery was truly beautiful, but we were marching up a steep hill in the pouring rain, still!! No time to look either side. A 1 in 2 climb then became steep!! Senor Raphael, our esteemed guide had to deal with the effects of the storm.

We reached the top and ate lunch. Rain stopped for 10 minutes while we pushed calories back into our bodies. We were all learning the art of eating quickly whilst taking in much needed fluid as well.

We had reached the edge of the rain forest and this was the point of no return. The vehicles would be waiting at the other side. As we set off, it rained of course. The clue is in the name.

Extreme concentration was needed just to find a way through. Somewhere safe to put your feet. Is that spider poisonous? Did that bush move? How big are these ants?
What happens if someone falls? We descended for about 3 hours when we came upon the forth road bridge!

You couldn’t go back, it was too steep. It had to be crossed. So one by one we crossed this bridge. Indiana Jones crossed a similar bridge, but that was a movie, with safety nets and the like. Our safety nets were a raging river below and boulders big enough to break any bones!

Cross it we did. Every single one of us had to look deep into ourselves to overcome a truly difficult obstacle. For everyone that managed this bridge an achievement over and above their comfort zone was met.  Courage is not not having fear; courage is having that fear, but going on regardless.

Having crossed our forth road bridge, without injury, only then did it dawn on us that we had descended for 3 hours which meant there should be an uphill shunt next. So we climbed, again, this time on our hands and knees. Relentlessly it climbed! Still going up!

About an hour or so, (time doesn’t matter here, light and day are the only chronographs needed) we reached a small clearing beside a pylon. Renewed hope and vigour steeled us for what surely was to be signs that it was nearly over for the day.

Teamwork, that’s how this is done. Work together and it all seems possible. Tired legs became bone weary legs and without help everyone should suffer. On we pressed the lead group some distance from the back markers.

Pylon came and pylon went, but still no sign of and end. Dusk was approaching and extreme heat and exhaustion were well and truly with us. After what truly appeared to be an age, we came to a break in the rain forest. As our eyes struggled with the fading light, it became obvious that the clearing was just a landslide and a ledge of no more than 10 inches between you and an indeterminable fall had to be traversed. Round the next corner was a waiting truck ready to take us to our campsite for the night.
It was at this stage that Amanda had suffered a fall and had twisted her ankle. Dave our team leader had to back pack Amanda all the way to the truck. A mammoth feat of mountaineering by anybody’s standard. All of a sudden this was no game.
Freezing cold, soaking wet, starving hungry, we entered our camp. Met by the family of Senor Raphael and some deliciously hot soup, we greedily ate and drank. Some of us drank hot coffee; some found other refreshments more to their liking.

Amanda with a badly sprained ankle.

 When does a trek turn into an expedition? This is not what it said in our brochure. Many of these ‘trekkers’ were traumatised by today’s events and all fell into an uncomfortable nights sleep in temperatures of about 2 degrees. Jayne’s left arm had already begun to swell because of the lymphoedema from the day’s marching and was aching throughout the night. Too cold to take any clothes off, sleep forced itself upon our weary bodies. Cold, wet and tired, still our eyes closed!!

27th January 2009

After a sleep of some description, what had just happened began to sink in. The advertising blurb said 5 hours trekking uphill crossing a stream with a 30 minute drive our campsite. Morale is paramount in circumstances such as this and some were finding it very difficult to maintain their focus.
I knew how tired I was feeling so I could not understand how tired Jayne must have been feeling. It was at this point that I became emotional. I looked at Jayne and thought that inside that slight 8 stone frame beats the heart of a 28 stone lion.
I was humbled by her sheer determination to complete this task. Jayne could be in my team any time she wanted. I felt an impostor, a sham for being here with her.

Some people just have that ‘bulldog sprit ‘and it is very infectious. My self pity left instantly and we started the day. We ate our breakfast of yes, rice beans and egg prior to departing and set about finishing this mountain climb. 

At 07.00 hours we were pounding the trails again. The cold weather had left and in the space of an hour, we were all burning despite the factor 50 being liberally applied. We woke to 2 degrees and at lunch we were all sweltering in 28 degrees and sunshine. This was more like the paperwork I received. Gentle undulations beside coffee plantations, meeting the waving locals and enjoying the delightful countryside.

We stopped for lunch and for the first time on the trek, this was heaven. The sun beating down on ones shoulders, easing the aches and pains. A delightful breeze made it almost surreal. Neither a sound nor sight hindered this quiet and peaceful slice of nature. No cars nor sirens, no busy executives, no rude taxi drivers, not even a postman in a hurry. Life was “Pura Vida” as the motto of Costa Rica says. We left this idyllic place behind and sprang up towards our destination for the night. The settlement of Santa Maria De Data, Raphael’s home town.
As we tuned the corner, our delight turned to horror. I hope we walk left and not right said the group in unison. The old mule trail was 2 hours of sheer uphill with no let up. Every turn produced another uphill with an even steeper gradient than before. 2 hours of climbing up such hills was not in the small print for everyone.

Sometimes it was difficult and sometimes unfair. When god made feet, he didn’t think people would do charity treks.

Santa Maria De Dota in the distance.

Now we go down hill. Many fell, tripped, tore thigh muscles. Knees wrenched, ankles gave way. We all suffered one form of pain or another. 20 Km later we entered the reservation at about 16.30 hours. As we took off our packs we realised that delightful breeze had hidden the fact that we had all burnt.

It is with trepidation that we sat down to eat our food for the night. These refried beans, rice and egg, although nutritionally perfect for the job in hand, was really becoming tiresome. To our delight Maria, (Raphael’s wife) had taken some trout from the farm and cooked some gorgeous fish with garlic and a Costa Rican herb. Washed down with some merlot. Could life be any better? We were all warm, well fed and enough wine to allow sleep to do its job on tired bodies.

28th January 2009
 
Up at 5 am as Dave had promised a tough day ahead. So what were the previous days? 20 Km, steep at times was the promise. How can it be any steeper? If it was any steeper, Dave would have to issue crampons and specialist climbing equipment.

Tarmac for the first 1Km then more mule trail. The fittest amongst us the full time marathon runners burst into tears at the relentless uphill gradient. 3½ hours uphill at that gradient left the lungs burning. The smokers among us didn’t that day! As we reached the top of this climb, a lunch break was called.

It was now obvious that we must go down somewhat otherwise oxygen masks would have been handed out. The height was unsure, but we are sure the height was enough to bring on altitude sickness. So downhill we went. Only to find that the end of the trek was uphill yet again. Steepest hill I’ve ever seen!!

A brutal days trekking left us on the very edge of the jungle at a house that belonged to a friend of Raphael.

We greedily ate and drank our rations of yep, rice beans and egg, as we received the brief for the following day. Tomorrow we would enter the heart of the jungle and Dave said it would become tough from now on in. We would be without support vehicles or even the pack mules as it was considered too dangerous for the horses. Everything we needed for the next two or three days, we would have to carry! I was the one that queried at what point is it too dangerous for the mules, born with four legs and yet okay for us, born with only two.
Sleep was easy that night once you had accepted you were entering the jungle where ants, insects and spiders lived there only if they stayed alert. If they stopped their struggle they died. A bite or sting from some of these would lead to excruciating pain, paralysis or death.
 
29th January 2009
 
We woke at 04.30 hours to be met with our rice beans and egg, of course. A determination like which is only reserved for international athletes, allowed us to set off to the jungle. We said goodbye to the ones that would not be coming into the jungle, we should meet up with them at the finish line.

In the back of everyone’s mind was the expectation that at least there would be no hills on this part. We were all really quite pleased.
Round the corner was another hill 1 ½ hours uphill just to start the day. As we rounded the corner, the undergrowth became much thicker and we were at the edge of the jungle itself. The noise was deafening and the humidity rose by the minute. Dense undergrowth and sheer drops either side of you made concentration the number one priority.
We couldn’t believe it, it was still very steep. The only difference is that it was very slippery with the moisture in the air. Total concentration on footing, balance, posture and where would be safe for your feet.

As we pressed on the trail got smaller and more difficult to negotiate.

Sometimes it was steep.

Sometimes it was very steep.

Sometimes you couldn’t see the bottom so you didn’t know how steep it was. One did know, however, that the trail had gone and we were on precipes of no more that 8 inches in width. A slip here you may never be found, never mind found in time to get you back home in time for Valentines Day!!

It was easy to remember we were not alone. We knew that eyes, many of them, were keeping a watchful eye on us. If you don’t look for a snake, you probably won’t see one.

A 20 minute lunch break beside one of natures greatest designs. A waterfall where the start is hidden from view because it is so far away.

Further trekking led us into a dried river bed and with danger either side, more concentration was needed to stay away from the sides. So focused on safety were we that we had hardly noticed it had been raining all afternoon.

24 Km later and 11 ½ hours after we set out, well after dusk had turned to dark we entered our shelter for the night. We all had head torches on and oh needed were they. Sheer drops either side, deep bogs and still more hills. Ahead of the mules which came from the other direction.
Washed, dressed and changed into warm and dry clothes blisters sorted we drank coffee, (what with all the wine gone and things!)
Raphael’s beautiful teenage daughters arrived with the mules. Unpacked, and immediately started cooking our evening meal, with head torches on, They set about their tasks without fuss, without delay, in cheerful manner that could only bring admiration by any onlookers.

When finally our meal arrived, we were treated to the tastiest and most pleasant of spaghetti Bolognese one could wish for in a west End of London. To receive such gastronome in the heart of the jungle was exemplary.
We slept on a wooden floor that night aware there may be creepy crawlies all around us, but tiredness allowed us to sleep anyway. Jayne was given the only dispensation of the trip. The group, as a whole would not choose where to sleep until she had chosen her bed, off the floor on a foam mattress. Jayne snored and slept like a coalminer that night!!

30th January 2009
 
We woke to the smell of Raphael’s daughters cooking our rice, beans and egg, but this time with bits of bacon. Hum! Lovely. I’ll have more please!
During the morning we realised what a feat had been achieved by all who had undertaken this part of the challenge. Brutal in its intensity, even Dr. Livingstone had porters and mules and tents and things. We had ourselves and Raphael’s gorgeous family.
The previous day, Jayne had a bit of a fall and was suffering real pain in her leg. It was a torn thigh muscle. And a bruise and a half on her buttocks.
A 6am start allowed us to make inroads into our departure from the jungle. Within an hour the humidity made even the slightest of frames sweat profusely.

We pressed on and it became obvious very quickly that Jayne’s determination was not going to be enough. Sometimes will alone is just not enough and the aches and pains were getting the better of Jayne.
She became more solitary and refused to be involved in conversations. It was now the time of no return for Jayne. All endurance athletes will know the meaning of the saying “the wall.”
Jayne slipped and fell and hurt her torn thigh muscle.
These 15 trekkers, complete strangers a week ago, showed real concern for Jayne as she battled the effects of fuel starvation for her muscles.
Someone called ahead and asked for the horse to be sent down to allow Jayne to climb on.

15 strangers showing concern that normally only comes with the love of a close family. A lovely warm feeling came over us both. Poor Antonio was dispatched to see if Jayne needed help, and as one we both sent it packing in no uncertain terms. If Jayne couldn’t walk, then I would carry her. She would not fail in this quest for the sake of a sore leg!!

We rested at a stream and the girls got to work on Jayne. Glucose drinks, water, sandwiches and intense TLC allowed Jayne to walk on. The remainder made the most of the cool stream and bathed unashamedly.

It was all too short an interlude and we again marched on. Jayne’s new found strength pushed her up and away. She refused to take part in the frolic in the water. The help and encouragement meant she was on her own personal mission and wasn’t to be stopped.

An hour later we stopped for lunch and Jayne made friends with a feral mountain cat.

On we pressed expecting another 3 hours or so. From day one, when we mythered Antonio on how long we were from camp his answer never changed. 1 ½ hours with some undulation.  What a delight when, on this occasion, he actually meant it. We rounded a corner and I saw, at about 500 yards a can of beer! A mirage! Oh dear, dehydration had finally caught up with me. No it was camp.
We reached camp at about 3 pm and it is with immense pride that I say Jayne had managed to overcome extreme exhaustion, her aches and pains and the knowledge this is the hardest thing she had ever done or was likely to ever do again. This all done on her own volition. If ever a cold beer was deserved, this is it.
The mix of emotions hit and with beer comes sentimentality. This was to be our last night in the jungle and all of a sudden, we didn’t want it to end. True lifelong friends were made through this mountain climbing trek and we wished it could go on, albeit without the pain and anguish.

Our bed for the night was a luxury 18 berth sleeping pen with en suite bathroom facilities.

An early evening meal of rice beans and egg with early beers, followed by and early brief for the following day meant early to bed. The noise of the jungle no longer sounded intimidating, indeed we were serenaded to sleep by our fellow jungle dwellers and fell into a deep, peaceful and resting slumber.
Some of the ladies had images of the television program “Tenko” I, however was sure their hills weren’t as tough as ours!!

31st January 2009

We were permitted a lie in and rose at 6 am. Washed, ate what I hoped would be my last meal of rice, beans and egg, ever! We set off at 8 am for Antonio’s 1½ hours of undulations. A much easier finish he promised. We were still in the jungle so humidity was to take its toll, still.

The hills were relentless, gradients continued to tear at ligaments and tendons, uphill and downhill, the lower limbs were put to the test.
18Km measured against walks along the canal or in the park bears no relevance to this non stop hell of steep gradients. They drained the very last of muscle energy and reserves. The only thing keeping everyone going is the knowledge that it can’t be much more.
Antonio insisted we kept together and as we rounded the corner. Our finish line was visible. We were going to make it. Even with this amount of exhaustion, we would surely manage another 500 yards.

WE DID IT! WE HAVE COMPLETED IT!!
We never once took asylum in the support vehicles or horses.

Food, beer and in our case, a rather cheeky little Argentinean merlot helped alleviate the now severe pain of our lower limbs. After an enormous thank you for Raphael, Maria and their incredible children, we departed to our hotel to shower and lick our wounds. Some more severe than others.

It was then that we rested and donned our glad rags and ate our first meal served on plates in a week. We sipped at our  wine , in a clean glass, with delight, making it taste even better ( A delightful little Malbec 2002!) We revelled in the knowledge we had done something quite unique. We had raised over £50,000.00 for charities and each and everyone one of us had to search inside our soul to make sure we finished.
The last 8 days or so had turned pals into lifelong friendships.
What of everybody now. They would rejoin society exactly the same. Or would they?
To know what makes one tick is a self satisfaction that can not be bought. It is valueless to anyone else except oneself. Yet it is priceless.
Jayne has undergone such a torrid time in the last 18 months or so. This was designed to bring it all to an end.

From Day one to the very end Dave our team leader never did anything except reassure where was necessary. A leadership quality of the highest possible standards.

Dr. Jackie ( Pingu) Belbeck was not called to administer to Jayne at all. She was however instrumental in Jayne being able to complete such an arduous task. A lovely lady I am proud to call a friend.

And of sally and our fellow trekkers. They, individually and collectively have ended Jayne’s fight with cancer.

I love each and every one of you.

BECAUSE OF THIS TREK AND THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE ON IT
IT’S OVER AND WE HAVE WON!!

Vincit qui se vincit.